Routes worth mastering
This business has taken us to many places where you would not normally expect to spot a red double-decker bus, 400 miles from its old haunts. But over the last 15 years we have brought guests to some of these venues so often that a Routemaster looks right at home these days. We don’t like to brag but we’d say it enhances the surroundings, ancient or modern!
So, what are our favourites? Too many to list but here – in no particular order – are some of the hotels, castles, houses, churches and other places that it’s always a pleasure to visit, either for a wedding or other event, and whatever the weather.
There’s something about the grandeur and sheer scale of the Balmoral hotel, monumental on its corner site of Princes Street and North Bridge, that is hard to ignore. One of Edinburgh’s great Victorian railway hotels, the Balmoral would probably claim to be the city’s top establishment. Parking is tricky though, with taxis and Lothian Buses jostling for position, so we usually stop up the road on Waterloo Place until we get the nod. Then the concierge, using all the flamboyance and authority they can muster, helps bag us the space.
A few miles to the south, tucked away near Arthur’s Seat at the end of an avenue of limes, is Prestonfield House, a 17th century, white-washed house whose tranquil grounds are only ever disturbed by the occasional racket from the resident peacocks. Inside it’s full of character, all open fireplaces and cosy opulence.
Arthur’s Seat itself is one of our most frequent destinations – the high road that loops up from St Margaret’s Loch and passes Dunsapie Loch before twisting round below Salisbury Crags must be one of the most spectacular and thrilling routes in Edinburgh, or any city in the world. We have vehicle permits from Holyrood Park, though lately Queen’s Drive has only been open at limited times from Tuesday to Thursday. Some couples have even got married on or near the bus, by Dunsapie Loch, and drunk a toast on board with their guests before we have taken them on to their reception.
Like many hotels, the Kimpton, Charlotte Square – in the heart of Edinburgh’s New Town – has gone through several name changes down the years but it remains a popular choice for people who want to experience the city’s Georgian elegance.
A host of our most popular venues are clustered inside a small band to the north-west of the city. The suspense builds as you head slowly up the driveway to Hopetoun House, with its imposing classical design and stunning views over the Firth of Forth. Last summer we had the pleasure of providing all three of our vintage buses for the pre-wedding Highland Games of a couple from the US.
It’s hard to beat Barnbougle Castle, near Dalmeny on the Rosebery Estate. Originally a 13th century tower house, it was rebuilt in the 19th century as a library for the 5th Earl of Rosebery, who was briefly prime minister between 1894 and 1895 and practised his speeches here.
Dundas Castle, a short drive away near South Queensferry, is another stunner. The buses swing round with a satisfying crunch of the gravel before guests get off, often to be greeted with drinks and canapes as they enter the magnificent building. The bulk of it is Victorian, though after many visits I got to explore the Auld Keep a few years ago, which dates back to medieval times and features a wonderful stone and timber hall and spiral staircase.
Winton Castle, near Pencaitland in East Lothian, is another of Scotland’s historic houses, dating back to the 12th century. Setons for the first 600 years, then Hamilton Nisbets and – for the last century – the Ogilvy family have kept the keys. In 1745 Bonnie Prince Charlie stationed his troops here while the Earl of Seton, who supported the Jacobites, was in the Tower of London. These days our buses are welcomed into the peaceful grounds dotted with huge beeches and oaks.
Carlowrie Castle, just outside Kirkliston and less than half an hour from Edinburgh, is one of our most frequent wedding destinations. A herd of Highland cows graze in the grounds of this Scots baronial mansion.
Crichton Church near Pathhead is another gem, hidden away at the bottom of a hill down a lane that is only just wide enough for a Routemaster. We are always greeted by Henry, who lives in the manse opposite and whose grandfather was once the minister here. (Henry trims the branches each year to protect our roofs.) We park within sight of the castle, which always strikes me as more Welsh than Scottish for some reason.
A few miles away at North Middleton is another proper castle, Borthwick. Mary Queen of Scots fled here from Holyrood in 1567 after the murder of her husband, Lord Darnley. When the castle was surrounded, she disguised herself as a page and rode off to be reunited with Bothwell, Darnley’s suspected killer.
The Royal Yacht Britannia is one of those places we only ever visit at night, driving alongside the ship and dropping clients off for a special dinner. A red carpet and piper provide that extra sense of occasion.
The Royal Mile, the historic main artery of Edinburgh’s Old Town, is one of our most requested stops. From the Castle at the top to Holyrood Palace and the Scottish parliament at the bottom – with City Chambers, St Giles Cathedral and Canongate Kirk in between – it may be a magnet for tourists but it’s also a culturally and socially vibrant street.
East Lothian is spoilt for choice when it comes to exciting venues, from the elegance of Gosford House near Aberlady and Archerfield House by Gullane to Gilmerton a little inland. On a smaller scale, Dirleton Kirk and Seton Collegiate Church are pretty good too. The approach to Broxmouth Park near Dunbar involves squeezing over a cattle grid and through fields of sheep. They usually look surprised to see us.
Whitekirk, off the magical stretch of the A198 near Tantallon Castle, is a relative newcomer and last summer we visited for the first time. We had the pleasure of taking Laura and Issy and their guests here from Tyninghame village hall, a few miles away.
That’s one of the joys of this job – discovering new places. We never quite know where The Red Bus will go next.